Assagay weekend, Valley of the Thousand Hills, Kwazulu Natal
Written by: John Balsdon, on behalf of David de Bruyn and the BMW Club Central
Photos by John and Jenny Balsdon, and David de Bruyn
Whether it was David’s reputation as an excellent organiser or the attraction of the warmer KZN climate the ride was filled to capacity. Actually, slightly more than capacity, at least one couple, Louw and Alta, had to sleep in a different hotel. But, like everything else, that was well taken care of by our hosts, and they were ferried to and from the Assagay Hotel to avoid any two wheeled riding at night after a couple of drinks.
We met at the Engen garage on the N3 just before Villiers on Thursday morning and departed quite promptly at 08H30 as planned. Luckily we departed from the rapidly growing traffic volume of the N3, after a few hundred metres, to take the Memel road to Newcastle. The road works started soon after but were reasonably well managed and, as irritating as these delays are, I suppose we should be thankful that some of our taxes are being used for the benefit of the public.
The rest of the road, although not perfect, is vastly improved on what it was just over a year ago and we were able to enjoy some of the scenery rather than playing ‘dodge the pothole’. But the really interesting part came between Memel and Newcastle as the wind quickly grew in strength and felt too many of us like a tornado. We all survived and passed safely through Newcastle but on the exit Karl Hoffmann stopped to secure his saddlebag that had come loose. Aided by the wind he toppled over and although he had a few bruises and strained muscles, he and the bike escaped any serious damage. However, he was unfortunately about to win the prize for being the ‘unluckiest’ person on the ride: not very well known for his high speed riding, while making a valiant effort to catch up to the others, he was, to add serious insult to his mild injury, caught in a speed trap. His experience was further aggravated by cops that followed the familiar attempt to ‘bargain’. Karl stood his ground but it was a heavy price to pay and has left him with no option but to challenge the ridiculous fine imposed by the disgruntled ‘law’ enforcers.
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On the Way
As we approached Ladysmith the strong wind gradually subsided and was, thankfully never to return. Here we re-grouped after the disruption and went on our way to Nottingham Road. We stopped at the charming venue Rawdons Estate’s’ Restaurant just outside Nottingham Road for lunch. The establishment includes a private Brewery. Some brave and confident riders took advantage of the fact that we had little more than 100kms to the Assagay hotel and sampled some of the, reportedly, outstanding brew.
Arriving at Rawdons’
The traffic on the last section of highway caused a slightly dispersed arrival but we all made it to the Assagay hotel around 16H00. We were welcomed to this elegant hotel by friendly staff and were shown to our spacious well appointed rooms. The hotel is owned by Jake, himself a motorcyclist, and member of the Natal BMW Motorcycle Club. Jake went out of his way the entire weekend to ensure that we were treated like VIP’s, both in the hotel and the day rides that he had organized.
The elegant Assagay Hotel After settling in our rooms and cleaning up we gathered in the hotel pub. The usual social atmosphere developed amongst the group of around 40 people. At about 19H00 we were ushered to the thatch dining area at the pool by Jake. The banquet setting was dedicated entirely to the motorcyclists and we were treated to an outstanding braai, which set the standard of the meals for the rest of the weekend.
We were briefed by the Natal club ‘ride captains’ on Friday morning. The off-road ride was a small group and lead by Jeff. Lance addressed the road group and we all departed for Cato Ridge together at 09H00 with the final destination of Ballito Bay. After a relaxed ride through the magnificent 1000 hills area in glorious sunshine, the road and off-road groups went on their separate ways.
Countryside in the Direction of Nagle Dam
The road group headed off into the hills in the direction of Nagle dam. Due to some really slow moving vehicles a few riders, with David as the sweeper, fell behind. The main group made a right turn onto one of the district roads. Amongst the confusion of the very rural housing, traffic and people, the first rider in the tail-end group was concentrating so hard on avoiding the confusion including goats and other (some unidentifiable) animals that they missed the last bike in the front group when it turned. By the time I set chase the ‘missing’ group had disappeared into the mountains. After a lengthy chase and some frantic phone calls we managed to establish the approximate location of everyone. We all decided it was best to proceed in the two, now separated, groups (Jenny, myself and the Garmin as a third very small group) to Ballito Bay. This worked well and the main group had a reportedly wonderful ride through the beautiful mountainous area of Natal.
The scenery in the area is remarkable but the condition of the district roads (D roads) and the regional roads, that Jenny and I used, to wind our way to Ballito were even more remarkable. The tarred road surfaces are in perfect condition and we were able to really concentrate on the scenery. The vast amount of people living in these mountains and hills was very noticeable but what was even more obvious was the attitude of these rural people. They all looked healthy, happy to see us and nearly all the children and many of the adults waved frantically as we whisked by. One cannot help thinking, that despite the lack of modern amenities, they certainly appear to have a satisfactory alternative life style without the stress and pace of us city dwellers. But the thought of living without a bike was enough to bring me back to our ‘real’ world.
I met up with David and his group a few kilometres from Ballito and we proceeded to the Hops restaurant on the Beach front that Jake had arranged. A short while later Jeff arrived with the off-road group. Lance and the main road group arrived about an hour later after this having done the more ‘scenic’ route. The various groups all reported in the affirmative - all had a stunning ride through the mountains.
The Very Long Regal Setting
David and his ‘lost/found’ group were finished with lunch before Lance and the others arrived and so decided to head back to Assagay ahead of the main group to visit the Motorrad dealer via the Inanda valley. They received a warm welcome to the dealership with coffee and after the visit made their way back to the hotel where most others had already arrived. In the traditional fashion, people gathered in the pub quite early in the evening (or late in the afternoon?) to find another banquet setting. The buffet supper was again a true reflection of the very long and regal setting that Jake had, again, specially arranged for our group. People were tired from the relatively long day and David had to threaten to lock the doors to prevent the people from retiring too early. Despite his best effort, early retirement was the final victor and the people, exhausted from a good day’s riding, a good meal and a few drinks, sneaked off to their rooms.
Exhausted from a Good Day's Riding
The following morning we were greeted by extremely misty conditions, it appeared to be a damp and dreary day so typical of the area. The Natal Club had done another comprehensive job of arranging the ride to Richmond, Ixopo and back to Byrne to the quaint and remote hotel called The Oaks. After a very short distance the dampness and mist disappeared and with the lifting of the weather so did the spirit of the people as we were greeted, once more, by glorious sunshine.
Once off the Highway the scenery, although reasonably flat, was still a delight to behold when compared to our dull and drab grey-brown winter conditions back home. The landscape changed rather dramatically between Richmond and Ixopo. The bends and sweeps through the mountainous valley seem to appear from nowhere and are only comparable to the best of the Eastern Transvaal. On the way back from Ixopo to Richmond we broke our military rank and file riding and we all travelled at our own pace, some a little less sedate than others.
After a short trip from Richmond to Byrne (we didn’t see too much that resembled a town) we arrived at the Oaks Hotel. In typical old fashioned hotel tradition we waited until precisely 13H00 pm, when the lunch bell was duly rang, and we were granted permission to enter the dining room. The lunch was more than adequate and of a good standard but we had been spoilt by Jake at the Assagay Hotel, so I might even be underestimating the quality of the meal on offer.
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This photograph is displayed at the Oaks in reception - it was taken September 1982, of the BMW Motorcyle Club Durban, on a Breakfast Ride. Obviously a favourite venue, as they are still visiting it 29 years later! Mostly R100's!
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We all made our way back to the hotel, different groups taking slightly different options but the result was the same – we arrived back at the hotel and then, as darkness fell, once again, we drifted into the pub. The last evening always has an underlying sadness lurking in the back of the mind but Jake’s outstanding hospitality overshadowed this by treating us to ‘lamb on the spit’ in the thatch dining area where we were on the first night.
David thanked all the Natal Club members who had given us their time and done such a sterling job of organizing our entire weekend of riding (and eating) and making the weekend a truly memorable one. He especially thanked Jake who had given us the freedom of his hotel and treated us to such a memorable stay.
Apologies to Gavin Maxwell for the corruption of his book title, A Reed Shaken by the Wind, but it seemed the most applicable way to introduce David’s ride to the Assagay Hotel in KZN. Although the wind did not last very long and only over a relatively short distance on the first day, it was strong, and even violent enough, in patches to inscribe itself as a feature of the entire ride. I believe it will long be remembered as a part of the ride but the negativity it implies was so greatly overshadowed by the wonderful weekend that even the wind will be remembered with some affection.
