277 km from The Big Smoke (as the crow fly) – Crossing borders and of broken and faulty roads

First stop was Ermelo, where a last truly South African breakfast was enjoyed with the local GS Challenge Guru, R1150GS Adventurer, motor vehicle specialist and his much better looking better half.

 It felt like we were are starting to move into a foreign country when the next road sign declared that the next town would be Amsterdam, fortunately it was only a short distance from Ermelo. This turned out to be a beautiful country (side) with black and smooth curves through lush green hillocks.

Arriving at the sign with two flags, we realised we were actually at the border, Nerston crossing to Sandlane – Sand Lane turned out to be an omen. The changes were immediate, with some local villages quite close to the road – a little bit like riding in Kwazulu Natal or even Lesotho. Within a few kilometers we were met by a traffic sign stating that the road is “broken” or something to that affect, and the next moment the tar disappeared. And came back again and disappeared again.

Arriving in Bhunya, finding the right way around the circle towards the Malvern Valley, turned out to be a challenge – and the way to Mbabane was discovered by some – fortunately this was not too much of a detour. After negotiating the circle (correctly) we realised that the first piece of road was a very unfair reflection and we discovered the rest of the roads were beautifully tarred, although there not always signage – thank you for GPS’s!! And of course the faulty road…more later.

Arriving in Ewulwini Valley, we were welcomed with iced tea and a light lunch – compliments of Sun International and the Club Committee. Check in was smooth, and soon the magnificent pool – recently restored according to Derrick Mavuso, manager  – was discovered, as well as the excellent pool bar were the service was always friendly and efficient. Dinners and breakfast turned out to be an event not to be missed, with an excellent buffet laid on and nightly entertainment by Sun International and some valiant bikers.

Day 2: exploring the Deep South

Departure promptly at 8h30 from the car park the next morning took us East via Manzini to Big Bend. (Note, not Big Ben but Big Bend, were the Lusutfu River makes a Big Bend!!!) Stopping at the OK Grocer for a break, an ice-cream or a cold drink was enjoyed. The bikes and bikers soon become a popular attraction, and the features and benefits were discuss with some very friendly locals.

Traveling over open country side towards Lavumisa, which the main border post from Jozini – we were met with a road sign stating that the road was “Faulty”!!

Fascinated by this sign, and waiting in suspense to see what is ahead, thinking of alternatives to take the horde following, kept me in suspense for a short while. It was soon revealed that a “Faulty” road meant the road has turned into a mini tar roller coaster, probably partly caused by heavy vehicles and ground movement. Closing the throttle slightly solved the problem of the faulty road. Arriving in Lavumisa, we decided to wait for the group to catch up. The crows were yawning, and every little bit of shades was used up to try and find a little bit of relief for rider and steed.   Then the huge surprise – for the next 80 kilometers – luscious, wide and sweeping roads took us to Nhlangano Sun Hotel for a leg, food and drinks break. The fact that there was so little traffic on such a beautiful piece of tarmac was discussed to great extent.

Turning North took us back to Manzini – again on stunning roads, were the Rider’s Ranch, venue for the Swazi Rally, was a have to see.  Beautifully old machines proudly displayed their heritage.

Day 3 – Turning tourist - The Biggest Granite boulder in the world, beautiful grass and Pigg’s

The next morning saw a smaller group gathered in the parking area, as a group of dirt lovers has left even earlier to meet up with some locals from ET to explore the Pigg’s Peak area.

In Mbabane, the Pine Valley Road provide some nice twisty low speed riding, arriving to Sibebe Rock – the biggest Granite Outcropping in the world. This is an awesome site, it is also a popular walk, but not recommended when it is wet!

Following Pine Valley Road back towards Mbabane, the riders were taken on an exploratory tour of the city (read the leader got lost), and then we continued onto Ngwenya Glass, were the most beautiful dolphins and warthogs were created with recycled glass. (Thankfully we were on bikes – otherwise wallets would have suffered).

Continuing on towards Pigg’s Peak, we turned right towards Muguga Dam, and immediately were totally absorbed by the superb road, twisting its way though this incredible mountainous area with very little traffic to distract you. Crossing the dam wall turned into a photo opportunity and some nice poses were struck!!

Arriving hot and dry at Orion’s Pigg’s Peak Hotel – some intrepid bikers shed their clothing – and made use of the swimming pool to cool off. Soon they were competing in the local Bingo competion!!

Day 4 – Reacquainting ourselves with Man-kaya-ne, Piet, Dirkie, Charl, Louis and going back to the Big Rain.

Leaving in an early misty rain, the best was kept for last!!

Climbing from 2700 ft, the most incredible pass takes you to Mankayane, through beautiful forest to 4390 ft, and then leads you gently to Sicunusa border post. This is by far the best border post to enter Swaziland – quite and beautiful roads.

Leaving Swaziland, and arriving back in the Republic then took us on a most incredible ride following the R543 through familiar territory for GS Challenge riders – past Heyshope Dam, Moon Mountain, through Dirkie’s Dorp, Wakkerstroom and Standerton. What an incredible ride!!

We then followed the R546 to Charl Cilliers – and were met with an incredible downpour between Kinross and Leandra. From there the group started to split into all directions after hearty greetings were shared.

And the Accolades go to:

To Grant, Jonathan and Colin from Auto Alpina Motorrad – our gratitude for the friendliest and courteous service around, for the coffee, and the back up vehicle, the tire changing service, etc.

To Sun International – and specifically Jill and Sipho – compliments for the excellent way we were treated, the price we paid, the prizes we received, and everything else. Lugogo Sun and Sun International are simply the best!!

To the Kingdom of Swaziland – we will be back!!

To the best bunch of riders – thank you for, your stupendous company and all the fun we had.

Signing off

Yes, you need a passport to cross the border; Yes it is a foreign county; and Absolutely Yes it is worth the effort.

Swaziland features a safe and friendly biking area, with some tremendous scenery, roads and people. We covered a lot of the tar roads – there are some areas like the far north eastern area that we could not fit into the time. The dirt road opportunities is tremendous, speak to any of the GS riders on the trip.

This is my second visit – the first one a year ago when we traveled through Swaziland from Richards Bay to Graskop – and on that trip we got hooked on the county and that led to organising this trip.

It is tradition to have an annual event to a special destination for the weekend incorporating the 16^th December. Look out for the next edition!!

This has been a production of BMW Motorcycle Club Central