Taking a trip to Dundee is taking a trip back in time.
A part of our country that is not visited enough by our own people. I think more foreiners visit Dundee than South Africans. If you ever get the urge or chance, do yourself a favour, hop on your bike and head down to Dundee. The roads are generally in a good condition and there is actually a lot to see and do! Book yourself into The Royal Country Inn it is a magic little hotel with old-world charm, food and service is fantastic.
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Day 1 – Wednesday – Down to Dundee On the 16th December 2009, 12 bikes set off to Dundee. Weather was fine, spirits high. A few of us had ridden together on previous trips and it was great to ride with “old” friends and the anticipation of making new friends. Our first main stop was Standerton. Lunch/Brunch was had at Rhapsody in Blue, a place on the river. With a little more attention and faster service it would be a great place to stop if ever in that direction. One must however take into account that 16th December was actually a public holiday and the owner opened especially for our group. Arrival in Dundee was pretty much as per plan, we got in around the 15h00 mark and proceeded to book in and unpack. Everything at the Royal Country Inn was arranged and ready for us with a welcoming Champaign and juice. Really makes one feel welcome. After freshening up, we all congregated in the lovely pub. Drinks and conversation flowed until dinner time. Again the hotel outdid itself with the dinner. If you enjoy GOOD food, that is the pace to be. |
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Day 2 – Thursday – Battlefield Tour
The Battlefield tours kicked off at 08h30 with the tour guide – Mike Nel. The tour took in the 3 major sites: -
1. Blood River
2. iSandlwana
3. Rorkes Drift
I never new that History would be so interesting. Mike made the whole day a memorable one. He spoke non-stop from 08h30 to 17h00, some of the time even re-enacted scenes out of the battles, using perfect Zulu and British English. It was honestly an eye opener to hear about the battle and the senseless loss of life during that period, what a waste. At least there are those few dedicated people that keep the story alive for future generations. If you have kids send them on a tour, it not only keeps them out your hair for a day, and they may actually learn something.
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Of the 12 bikes, 5 bikes (all GS’s) braved the dirt roads, me and my wife being on one of them. We had no idea how much dirt we would ride and what the conditions of the roads, only that they were “good”. Well, they turned out to be great, dusty but great. We spent the whole day on the dirt and boy was it hot! The entire group got totally sunburnt, with dollops of factor 40+ being dished out.
Many thanks to Mike for making our day so interesting, I only wished I had a teacher like you when I was learning History back in my school days; maybe I would have passed with better marks.
The return to the Hotel saw a tired, dusty but enlightened group of people with a better outlook on what had happened all those years ago. After a shower and clean set of clothes we all felt ready to take on the pub again. Some of us even washed our bikes, I will not mention the name of the chap that made an excuse and said that a dirty Adventure made it look better. (I still don’t agree Seamus). Dinner was no disappointment, again. That night the group seemed to split up a bit earlier that the first night, I wonder why?
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Day 3 – Friday – Long Ride This day was spent taking a ride to Ballito for lunch, may sound far, but for the BM’s it’s a walk in the park. The roads in general were good, just the area around Melmoth was atrocious. We rode through a forest with what could have been the best ride in the country. Only to be spoilt by enormous potholes. Luckily a taxi, of all things, rode in front and showed us how to negotiate the roads. In Johannesburg we dread Taxis; on that road we appreciated a Taxi. After the potholes were behind us, two “gentlemen” decided they had enough of the speed or lack of it, and they, as they customary do, left the pack to clear the carbs. Unfortunately for one of the gents, something punctured the tyre. Being a “semi super” he did not carry a puncture kit, no place. But not to worry, the Adventure came to the rescue. Puncture fixed, off he went. Never seen this particular bike being ridden so slowly. Melmoth was the stop for petrol and a leg stretch. I am sure the area would be as good as Sabi if it was not for the potholes and the distance from Gauteng. Not too far down the road, the group came to a stop; the puncture plug dislodged itself and needed attention again. It was then decided to split the group, the majority went onto Ballito and the others rode with that oh so slow “semi super” until he could get a proper patch in the tyre. The major group arrived and found a restaurant as close to the beach as you could find, any closer and we would be getting our feet wet. The entire group with exceptions of the two “semi supers”, who went to Durban for a new tyre and one other couple, got together for a light lunch. After lunch and a bit later than planned, we hit the road again. |
Not too far from the coast in what must be one of the best roads in SA, we hit mist, and I mean mist!! They talk of Pea Soup mist in the UK; well I think we had the Soup and the Bread. I moved a certain couple in Day-Glo Rain suites to the back of the pack and proceeded at a snails pace up the pass. It was a pity about the mist as I am sure the road and scenery would have been spectacular. Thank goodness for GPS, I zoomed in and rode by GPS alone as I could honestly not see 5m ahead. I just prayed that those Garmin chaps had plotted this road 100%, any mistake and there would have been 10 bikes taking a short-cut down the mountain. Well done Peter Short, you got this one spot on!
Once out the mist we tried to make up some lost time. A pity the villages you go through are so dirty, paper, trash and animals are all over the place. The road back was without pot holes. Only the wind tried to slow us down, but to no avail. The BM’s put their heads down and lifted their tails and made a dash for the Hotel. The two “semi supers” once again caught us before Dundee and promptly left us as well, as they applied that bit of extra speed that they are renowned for. I would love to give their names, but am not sure if there are any cops out there that are looking for them, only for a substantial reward will I give up my fellow bikers, don’t worry, Chris and Graham, your identity is safe with me.
We arrived back at the Hotel a tad later than planned. Everything was thrown at us that day, heat, potholes, mist and wind, but still it was a great ride. Nothing beats a good ride on a bike; no weather can dampen the spirits of a true biker. Even a bad bike ride is better than a good trip in a car. I was surprised to see the emptiness in the hotel after dinner, even the youngest retired very early that night. Must have been the fresh air.
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Day 4 – Saturday – in and around Dundee At around 10h00 the morning, we gathered to proceed to the museum. I am glad no cameras came out as we left from the Hotel that morning. A scragglier bunch of bikers on BM’s I have yet to see. It was shorts, t-shirts and sandals. Although we all had gloves and helmets on. With total lack of “proper” clothing we proceeded in a group to Talana. Talana Museum, in the town’s borders, about 2km from the Hotel, kept us busy for about 4 hours; it is unlike any museum you have seen before. This is a living monument to the pioneers of the Buffalo and Biggarsberg region. Set in 20 acres of park like grounds against the slopes of Talana hill and on a portion of the battlefield, each of the 15 buildings has a separate theme. After a lunch there, we headed back to the Hotel. I kinda think most parked their bikes and took a well earned rest. It was decided to give Maria Ratshitz Mission a miss that day. The Day-Glo couple, being the youngest, went onto the mission. Our Xmas dinner was arranged for the night. The Hotel went out of their way to give us an absolute magic spread; crackers, hats and Xsmas decorations adorned the dining hall. The buffet was well worth it. Good food, good company – what more can one ask for, maybe just a few more days? The customary gifts were handed out, my wife and I felt like Mr. and Mrs. Clause. By the response of the group I seem to think the gifts were appreciated, they were different and personal. Thanks Richards (TWO and ONE) for the making of the gifts, much appreciated. After much joking and reflecting on the past few days it was time to call it quits and head back to the rooms to pack and get ready for the trip home the next day. |
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Day 5 – Sunday – Back Home. At 08h00 we lined up the bikes in front of the Hotel, stood by them and had our pics taken by the Dundee newspaper. So we must have made a hit there, they say, not yet seen, we will appear on the front page (do they have more that one page?) of the Dundee Chronicles. Around 09h00 we started our journey back to Gauteng. Memel Hotel was a lovely place to stop for tea, coffee and something cold. After a break we continued our trip. On the one pass and after hitting a nasty pothole one of the bikes lost part of its load. A pannier took a tumble, nasty scratches but still intact. Out came the tie-down and on went the pannier. I am still amazed by the lovely roads, potholes aside, in that area. A second visit is definitely on the cards. At the Petro Port just after Heidelburg, the group split, said their good byes and headed in various directions. One must remember, riding in a group can be compared to the wheel on a bike and that one loose spoke can unbalance the whole rim. Both Anne and I would like to thank all those that took part in the Dundee Trip, it was great and we met and made some great new friends.
Wymoth Palmer-Pilgrim |
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