There are things your parents tell you and then there are things they never told you, but should have. I think what we did this weekend was one of those “should have” times. They never told me to go and “ride in them there mountains”. There are varies ways of getting those “highs”, some legal and some not. What we did was so much fun that it should not have been legal. It takes a few good friends and a few bikes to do what we did. Luckily not that many bikers have realized what true fun is all about. I am not sure exactly when the passes where built, but somehow those chaps new about bikes, even in those days. They designed the roads for us, when I say us, I mean the BMW GS’s. They should open a BMW dealer on top of one of those passes and use those roads for a test ride; bikes would fly off the shelf. Forget the myth about bad roads, stone throwing and difficult border crossings.
Get your passports and head to Lesotho for the times of your life. If you ever wondered why you bought that bike, try the passes in Lesotho and you will see exactly why you bought that bike. On our trip we were 11 bikes, 9 x GS’s, 1 x LT and 1 x S. These twisties we discovered are not made for the LT and the S, this is GS country. They take the tight turns in their stride and never scraped. My only recommendation is a bit of riding skill, a sense of adventure and a bit of courage would not be missed (that’s for the pillions). You will see scenery not often seen in South Africa, the passes are more than one can imagine and the quality of the roads is more than we are used to now days. It’s on our doorstep, let’s experience it!!
A while back I did the Mohale Dam run and wrote about it. This was the start of my quest to find the best road to ride in Southern Africa. Now for some these roads are not the ideal, but I think for the GS it is what it was made for, other than just doing the Long way Down and Round. This would be called the Long Way There. It turns a distance of 83km (as the crow flies) into 172km. That was just the one run. Some bikes prefer the sweeping bends, some no bends, some like the 22 of ET; some prefer highways and some dirt roads. To each his own, each bike has a purpose, although I am still trying to imagine what some of them are for, no brands named, but those that know me will know which bikes I mean.
Our ride started with two groups, the slow group left on the Thursday and the second and brisker group left the Friday from the Blockhouse at 06h00 and headed South to Fouriesburg, the meeting point of the two groups. Just imagine being a bird, not a care in the world, just flying along minding your own business, and a bike rides into you. Not nice hey? Graham, in future, please do not terrorise the birds like that and to see how many you can hit at once, six is enough!! Once we arrived, we lightened the load at the Fouriesburg Inn, by dropping our luggage. This was our accommodation for the next two nights. Bikes refuelled, we headed for the border to tackle the first days ride to Afri-Ski. For those not sure where that is, it’s near Ox Bow Lodge, still not sure where that is? Just head up the pass, you won’t or can’t miss it. A few of us did the recce run previously in a car, let me tell you, on a bike it is totally different. Those turns are a lot sharper when it comes to biking.
In our midst we had a very nervous rider, not for the twists and turns, but for the border crossing. Luckily this turned out to be a pretty painless experience for him. There were a number of people doing the crossing. Amongst the bikers we came across the Ducati clan/boys/bikers. A number of them where attempting, what must have felt like The Long Way Up, as I am sure most of them had never attempted a ride that far before on their bikes. They had back-up vehicles and medical support, made us BM boys feels totally unprepared. We only had our bikes and a lunch pack each. But I suppose that is why we choose to ride BM’s. We let them head off first with a fair gap, so as not to hold us up on the bends.
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It was not too long before we came upon the group of Dukes at the halfway mark, resting and stretching. I have seen plenty of things being sold along the road, in all my travels in Africa, but I have never seen this. We came across this well dressed chap (had a BMW Jacket on) trying to sell us a Ducati cap. Or maybe he was hitching a lift with the BM’s, as we cruised past him, can’t blame him. Of course nobody stopped to buy that brand of cap. This chap was so persistent that when we stopped at Ox Bow Lodge, he again approached some of the BMW riders to try and sell the cap again. Again he had no takers. What is this world coming to? Does anybody recognise him???? The ride to the Ox Bow Lodge is a steep climb with plenty of sharp turns, some of them almost too sharp to be comfortable. The ups are so steep around the bends that you can’t see the top of the rise with your helmet on. You have to drop into 1st gear and take the turn and make sure you stay on your side of the lane. There are no land speed records broken on this ride. I had Anne (my wife and pillion) closing her eyes around the sharper bends, something I was not allowed to do. All in all, I would not rate this as the best ride so far, my quest for the ultimate twisties continues. I can honestly tell you I do not mind looking for those ultimate twisties; it means more riding for me, more time in the saddle and more fun. We climbed to the top of the pass, to the highest point, 3 280m. It is something worth riding for. To those that have never done it, DO IT!! We all stopped off at Ox Bow and had our lunch packs, before we attempted the descent, to build up strength. For me personally, the rides down are easier, engage a lower gear and let the bike do the braking, saves on the brakes. The ride is a slow process until you reach the bottom. All one must do is negotiate the bends and twisties. But don’t forget to have as much fun as you can, even this comes to an end. One thing about all these rides in Lesotho, you get to do them twice, in a day. You have no alternative, luckily, but to turn around and head home the same road, there is no alternate route. Border crossing again was fast and painless. We got back to the Fouriesburg Inn at around 16h00, after refuelling for the next day’s ride. Once changed out of biking gear, MOST of us set about cleaning our bikes. This was the time to reflect and speak about the ride. Dinner at the Inn is always a great time to sit and chat about the days ride. There is always a lot of laughter and chatting. The dinner was made special with the presentation of the best Vetkoek ever. These Vetkoek are “to die for” or in our case “to fight for”. The few prized leftovers, would have been the prize for the first person to reach the top of the pass at Katse Dam. An incentive that got everybody excited. (Later more about this.) Breakfast was had a bit earlier than normal, thanks again to the Inn for accommodating our requirements. By 07h30 we were all on the bikes ready to head into the Great Unknown, as none of the current group had been there before. The only three that had done the trip, opted out to do the Drakensburg. So it was up to me to lead the group up into the mountains towards Katse Dam. Most of the group still remembered the prize of the Vetkoek; this inspired us all into getting to Katse Dam first. We all left and headed to the Border Crossing. This time it was faster and even easier, that is, except if you fold your entry form, is it not Ray? Now in future you will know, DON’T FOLD YOUR ENTRY FORM. While we were gathering other side the border, on Lesotho side, a certain member of the ride, who shall remain nameless (until I name him), took the prize, yes correct, our Vetkoek and handed it to a little black kid that sat alongside the road. He gave this away as he knew he would not be first to Katse. Sad when one of your very own friends stoops this low, to give away our prize and reason for riding!!! I know I said you would remain unnamed, so John Balsdon, I will not tell anybody it was you who gave away our prize. He then went and even gave away the leftovers from the lunch packs to the same kid. So if you ever go into Lesotho and see a fat little kid, smiling from ear to ear, that is most probably the same kid that eats our prized Vetkoek. Well after much mocking and teasing John, we decided to rather take it easy up to Katse, now that the incentive was given away. This road, although longer, did not have as tight twisties as the Afri-ski ride. But don’t get me wrong, it had its own charm and difficulties. You head up through a lot more villages, with donkeys, horses and sheep. Not to mention the rocks in the road. As I rode up I wondered when these rocks fell and was hoping that it was only at the dead of night. At least we never saw any rocks falling so I am sure I am right. There was never any fear of kids throwing stones as so many people say, which is a total myth and should not put one off the ride. This, my fellow bikers, is my number ONE ride thus far. This should be on the top of your Bucket List, of Rides to Ride. The scenery, the bends, just the pure thrill of this ride is enough to do it as often as you can, not as fast as you can. At times it is actually scary to ride some the sections, you start climbing and the road bends away from you, you can’t see the edge of the road and all you see is the clear blue sky in front of you. If you do not have a GPS (zoomed in) you have no way of knowing if the road will turn left, right or dip down. Even with the GPS I had to slow down and only when you see the direction of the road can you twist the grip and ride. Scary, but what a rush. Another thought that went through my head – “if I was to head off the edge of the cliff, would the rest of the group follow?” That was something I was not going to test!!!
I am not sure if there is a Donkey Training College in Lesotho, but somehow these donkeys have impeccable road manners. They keep to their side of the road and wonder along all on their own without a handler in sight. That was all except one donkey!!! He must have failed his exams at the Donkey Training College. I had to make full use of the ABS on my bike as I was busy crossing a bridge
We approached bundles of grass moving alongside the road, first though was huge Tumble Weeds, but they are only found in the Karroo. As we got closer it became apparent what it was. They had packed these donkeys with so much grass that you could only see four spindly legs sticking out the bundle of grass. These donkeys were walking without a person in sight, to who knows where? We all had a good laugh as we past them.
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One starts seeing a huge mass of water, more than 50km from the Katse dam; this is the back-up as a result of the dam wall. It is an amazing sight to see this mass of water in the mountains. You must remember we are close to 3 000m above sea level at this time. This is evident most of the way to the dam as one travels along this huge mass of water all the way. The bridge crossing the mass of water is about the longest straight stretch of road to Katse.
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The first sight of the actual dam wall is quite impressive, you see it from quite far and even at the distance it looks impressive. As you get closer you understand the magnitude of the construction that must have taken place in this remote area. All the equipment and cement was carted on the very roads we were riding on and we had bikes not massive trucks. It boggles the mind to try imagining what the traffic on these roads must have been like at the time of construction. I was told the roads were constructed just for the construction of the dams and to get the trucks there. Hats off, firstly to the road crew and secondly to the dam crew, a job well done. Thanks again to the road designer; you must have been a biker!!! The road just seems to never end, thankfully so, and as you get higher it seems to get better and better, or maybe it is me getting used to the bends and twisties. Although you can’t go faster as you get used to the bends, one is inclined to enjoy it more and relax more. One word of warning, keep your mind on your riding at ALL times, one lack of concentration will see you on the wrong side of the road, in a bend, ask me I did exactly that. Luckily there was no oncoming traffic at the time. Another thing to remember, all those rocks on your right hand side, in the other lane, will be in your lane when you come down. So do try remembering where you saw the large ones. I know it is virtually impossible to remember, but do try, may just save you a huge amount of trouble on the way down. Or ride behind someone if you can’t and hope he can remember. I think that is what the entire group thought as they followed me down, little did they know!!!
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Have you ever gone somewhere and did not know what to actually expect when getting there. Well the Katse Dam Lodge was one of those places. I had not seen pictures, had a few reports about it but nothing spectacular. Well let me tell you, what I discovered was not what I expected. It is perched on the edge of the dam, with the most spectacular view of this huge mass of water. The food is good and cheap, a hamburger with chips and salad is R40, which is the same as in a restaurant in Johannesburg. Accommodation is good and compares very well to Lodges in South Africa, a 3 bed house, sleeping 6, with 2 bathrooms, comes in at R1 100 per night for the entire house. Our next trip to Katse will be broken by staying over at the Lodge and taking in the guided tour of the dam wall.
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The ride down is nothing like the ride up. The down ride had its own challenges, remember I said the rocks where on the inside lane, your side now. Each bend held the possibility of rocks; here too one had to concentrate on the road. What was down when we came up was now up when we went down and visa versa. That is what made it so enjoyable, although one goes back the way you came nothing is the same. Now what more can one ask for, maybe to turn around at the border and head back? Unfortunately the day was not long enough for a return trip. The return trip of 172km took us just over 2hrs 30 minutes, which was riding without any stops except the Border. As we neared the border I could see more and more people stretching legs and standing on their bikes. It had been a long day but one of the most enjoyable riding days I have had in a long time. I am sure that was the sentiment of all the members of the group that day.
15h30 saw us pulling into the Inn again, most of us refuelled and ready for the next day, which unfortunately, was back home again. We all changed and then MOST of us cleaned our bikes before assembling in the bar before dinner. Dinner this time was without Vetkoek, all this because a nameless person gave away our Vetkoek that morning. Never the less it was again a great dinner, with much discussions of the days ride. By the sounds of the conversation it sounded like the entire Katse group enjoyed the ride. There were even those that made plans to redo the ride in June next year, to ride the snow covered mountains, thanks Tony and Carol for agreeing to accompany me next year, much appreciated. I really thought you would object Carol, you really surprised me. What I did notice was that the group split up a lot earlier than the first night and headed off to their rooms, could it have been the day’s ride, if so then I did my job. I always say “a tired group, means it was a great ride” then I have accomplished what I set out to do. Biking is my passion and at every opportunity I try to let it rub off on other people, if I have inspired just one person to ride more, then I am happy, I have achieved what I set out to do. No ride is too far, no ride is too hard, some are just further than others and some are just more difficult than others!! Even a bad ride is better than a good day in the office.
The next morning was upon us, all too soon. Breakfast was early and then it was the ride home. Some chose to take a long ride via Clarens others a direct route, shortest way, home. Before the official goodbyes we did some posing for photos.
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Many thanks to all those that joined me for the ride, thanks to John and Jenny for arranging the lunch packs, and the dinners. Thanks for the great laughs Pat, but I still don’t know what to do with the gift you gave me in the blue wrapping. Thanks for all your support and friendship. Both Anne and I enjoyed every minute of the ride and really appreciate these weekends away with like-minded friends.
The people on the ride were: - John & Jenny, Chris & Marina, Tony & Carol, Christo & Zanmeri, Roy & Sue, Ray, Graham, Therina, Mark and Pat and Wymoth and Anne.
We have to do this again and very soon. This is what biking is all about, a group of friends getting together to appreciate biking and what biking has to offer, to ride where few others ride and to ENJOY.
Wymoth & Anne