BMW Motorcycle Club Central

2009, Namibia Adventure

Written by: David - 31st July 2009

All nine of us, four BMW1200 GSA”s and one GS, were excited and full of expectations for the unknown-”THE DESERT” -in a strange country .DAY 1: We departed at 06h30 from Jhb area to Upington, some 838km away. All of us were fresh and hungry for the unknown adventure that lay ahead. Our group was made up of the following club members:

· Csaba and Lyn Varvalvi

· Wentzel and Karin Trout

· Charles Hartman-solo.[I’m in the mood for FOOD]

· Jorge and Bella Ferreira

· Colin and Heather McKellar

We were very fortunate to have the Back-up vehicle, a Nissan Navara 4×4 D/cab, complete with two bike trailer, kindly supplied by Wentzel, and a comprehensive range of spares [2 huge DUST-PROOF boxes] kindly supplied by Mannie of Auto-Alpina. It was to prove to be a huge blessing in a few days into the ride for these facilities to be put to very necessary use. Little did we know…..

2009-03-28_namibia_2 We had been led to believe that the road system in Namibia was well maintained-they are-all ‘B’ roads [tar] and in a very good condition-very few potholes and the abundant use of white and yellow paint is remarkable.[SA appears to be out of stock of these road marking paints!]Information given to us was that all ‘C’ and ‘D’ roads [gravel] are continuously graded to ensure their condition is good at all times. Nature interfered with the grading program and unseasonal heavy rains a few weeks prior to our departure left many C+D gravel roads in a condition of THICK sand at most stream/river crossings. A huge build-up of loose stones/rocks was also very common.

Motor vehicles had made 2 tracks in the gravel in both directions. The net result was that the “middel-mannetjies’ were larger than normal and ranged from 100-200mm in height! We all learned very quickly that these were death traps-and to keep away from at all costs. Loose and slippery comes to mind.

Riding under conditions as described required complete and full attention 100% of the time to ensure you did not drop the bike and possibly hurt yourself. As a result of these hazardous conditions, not much of the countryside and scenery could be viewed and appreciated.

Moral of the story-do your trip before the rainy season.

DAY 2

Upington to Gondwana Canon Park near the Fish River Canyon.

Having all rested we set off via Augrabis Falls, which was spectacular. In order to make up time, we decided to take a short- cut from Kakamas to the N10, instead of going all the way back to Upington[a saving of some 140km].

Gravel road all the way…..thick..thick..thick sand. Pillion riders, Lyn and Heather, chose to dismount and ride in the relative safety of the 4×4 as road conditions were deteriorating. All wives were now in the 4×4. The ‘Manne’ forged ahead into the unknown-how exciting-not for Colin-he loses control and finds himself buried in the sand-one BMW R1200GSA upside down with engine still idling!!

Handlebars buried, kill switch invisible. Colin is thankfully unhurt and gets up out of the now settling cloud of dust, pushes the bike over on its side and activates the kill switch. Broken/damaged windscreen, top box and head light. His thoughts go to the two huge boxes of spares in the back of the 4×4. In order to not delay the ride to our destination any further, the bike is secured onto the trailer and Colin has 4 ladies to keep him company all the way to Canon Lodge!

However, as we still had to negotiate the border at Nakop[RSA] and 15km further on, Ariamsvlei[NAMIBIA] we were racing against the setting sun. The ‘Manne’ on bikes, forged ahead to ensure no nighttime riding on unknown gravel roads. The girls and Colin drive respectfully on and approx. 45km before destination, guess what?…in complete darkness- a puncture in right rear bakkie tyre!! One hour later, with all persons assisting, we were on our way again. Arrived at Canon Lodge around 21h30–dirty, thirsty, hot and hungry. We all slept well.

Next morning as the sun was rising, Wentzel had nearly completed the necessary repair work to Colin’s bike! It’s amazing what a clever, practical man, like Wentzel, can do when a plan has to be made.

DAY 3 - Fish River canyon

Magnificent grandeur and total silence were impressions we won’t forget. Being the second largest canyon in the world, I have a yearning to see the Big Daddy in Colorado.

Guess what? As we were about to return to Canon Lodge- another puncture in the left hand front tyre of the 4×4!! Our spare was flat from the previous evening…The manne made a plan again – plugged hole, compressor did the job and we were off again.

Called in at Canon Lodge Road House on our return – cold beers (Tafel) were consumed, ending the afternoon stop with a taste of the Roadhouse speciality “Cheese cake with Amarula”. (See photos of old cars parked in desert).

Participated in a “Sunset Hill Climb” back at the lodge, after having repaired the 3^rd puncture! Magnificent sunsets and sunrises can be viewed in the clean air conditions that exist.

DAY 4 - Canon lodge to Aus

Enjoyed early morning guided tour to “Hole in the Rock” about 4km from camp. Wentzel and Jorge headed for Keet manshoop to obtain 4 replacement tyres for 4×4. We were gat- vol of punctures.

The rest of us headed for Aus. The one and only hotel, the Bahnhof, is very well equipped and run. We recommend it.

DAY 5 - Aus to Luderitz

En route we were lucky enough to come across the famous “wild horses” in the area. All have distinct white markings on their faces and white dots on their rumps. They appeared to be relatively tame, as they grazed within 30m of the road. Also spotted on the B4 were Gemsbok, Springbok, Eland, ostrich and dead (run over) jackals.

12km out of Luderitz we called in at Kolmanshop, the famous ghost town of Namibia. We participated in the guided tour and certainly felt the feeling of old age diamond mining and all its hardships prospectors had to endure – both men, women and children.

Fortunately the wind was not blowing – it was a perfect day, which we were advised was most unusual. Once booked into the Bayview Hotel we explored Luderitz by bike and foot.

DAY 6 - Aus to Diaz Point (see photos)

Saw plenty of seals, Oystercatchers and sea gulls. Visited old mansion and museum. Had dinner at Protea Hotel (-20% thanks to Jorge) and enjoyed fresh oysters and locally caught fresh fish.

Packed for the next days ride as we had 125km tar and then 366km of gravel to negotiate to get to Sesriem.

DAY 7 - Aus to Sesriem

Made contact with the C13 gravel road at around 09h00. You seen in front of you either soft sand or gravel with 2, 3 or 4 ruts in the road and heaped stones between the ruts, sometimes up to 150mm in height.

Your mind goes into survival mode, your reflexes sharpen and your muscles in fingers, hands, wrists, back and legs begin to ache. You endeavour to sit wherever you think/feel it is safe. The sitting does not last for long – up again to feel the bike control returning to something you can handle.

You see only where you have to go in the rut – nowhere else, otherwise drama.

No time for scenery, mountain views, wild life, trees and vegetation – just pure adrenalin concentration for 366km. Eventually after many sandy river crossings of various widths, you arrive at Sesriem exhausted.

What an experience – you feel you have accomplished something, yet disappointed by not being able to enjoy the countryside.

Booked in at Sossusvlei Desert Camp (tented accommodation of high quality), self catering facility. We all drove to Desert lodge and partook in the buffet dinner under starlight. R190pp but great variety of food. Enjoyed a few Tafel beers again and slept well.

DAY 8 - Sossusvlei and Sesriem canyon

Early start – 06h45 to join queue at park gate, which opens at 07h00. Sunrise to sun set park operating hours. Bike and vehicle entrance fee the same. Total cost of 9 pax, 1 bakkie and 4 bikes was R590.

Drove approx. 50km on tar to 5km short of Sossusvlei where you park your bikes and bakkie. Shuttle service at R110pp to take you the last 5km to the Sossusvlei and the Deadvlei.

On our return we enjoyed a braai at the poolside with more Tafel beers been consumed. In the Namibian desert heat, you can and must have plenty of liquid, and Tafel seemed to assist in our well being in the most delightful way.

DAY 9 – Sesreim to Swakopmund

266km bad dirt road. Grateful for tar road. 6km outside W/B, desert conditions approx 30km from Walvis Bay to Swakopmund. As it was Sunday 5^th, all recreation takes place on the dunes – quads and bikes. Old and very young.

Lunch at Walvis Bay harbour, overlooking sea, seals, pelicans and flamingos – beautiful.

Lovely b/f at Alta Bruke lodge – went to dune 7. All enjoyed quad riding – Mon 6^th and experiencing ride in 3km clear plastic ball down dune.

Went to salt works, Walvis Bay shore ride – flamingos – Turns, pelicans, seagulls, cormorants.

Had refreshments at restaurant overlooking sea. Went to Karakul mohair factory, shoe factory (veltskoens), crystal gallery – enjoyable dinner at The Wreck – building the shape of a ship with large 2m windows. Sea lit up after dark.

Cape cross – salt pans – wreck – block beach toilets for fishermen.

Tues – water de-salination plant – salt processing plants – Cape Cross lodge – seal playing with octopus in waves, prior to eating it. Jackals on beach (3),

160 000 seal country and Dias cross. R70 per couple entrance.

Henties bay – fisherman’s and holiday village – sea food lunch at local sea food restaurant. Salt road. Variable surface and scenes. Tables on side of road displaying crystals and Honesty box – U stop, choose and place money in bottle. No persons in attendance. Returned via Swakopmund sea view drive. Visited lighthouse and indoor swimming pool.

Enjoyed diner at The Tug restaurant overlooking the beach. Nice and relaxed with beautiful sunset view. Excellent weather.

Swakopmund to Windhoek

Wed 8^th – C&C took B2 (tar) to W. Others rode C28 down to C26 to experience the Kusieb and Gansberg passes. Scenic but never ending think soft sand encountered. Heavy going. Booked in at Arebbusch Lodge – dinner at Joe’s Beer House. Huge cuts of meat.

Jurgermeister traditional drinks before and after each 500ml draught beer. Sales amount to around 200l/m @ 20ml/lot = 10 000 tots/drinks/month.

Thurs 9^th – Charles – “I’m in the mood for food”! Spent day absorbing what Windhoek had to offer. Visited Presidents house, extravagance of note! Lutheran church – government buildings – city centre and meteorite display – Kalahari butchery for biltong, Joe’s beer house (in day light) had refreshments, then onto Windhoek Country Club for lunch. Dinner at Portuguese restaurant.

Prepared for trip to Grunau.

Fri – departed 7am – long straight uninteresting road. Spent night at Vastrap farm guest house, about 8km south of Grunau. What a lovely ending to a boring day. To experience Namibia situated on a farm, kilos from any people, towns etc is something to be savoured.

We were exceptionally privileged to enjoy the beautiful, quiet and clean air, view of both the sunset and then watch the moon rise in perfect peace – then enjoy a wonderful Namibian braai (wood only no charcoal) comprising of sosaties, lamb chops and local boerewors, accompanied by traditional indigenous vegetable varieties, all prepared the local way.

A “honesty” book was given to us to note what refreshments we consumed. All very strange for us GP people! But so good to experience that there are still circumstances and people who have trust in human kind. After dinner we all star gazed, even though it was full moon – most satisfying. Bed called at around 21h30.

Grunau To Wolmaranstad

Saturday

Big push today approx. 860km. We departed from Vastrap guest house around 07h00. those of us who had had to purchase spares went straight to the customs office at Ariamsveli/Nakop and submitted our VAT claims. Officials reluctant to co-operate – I think the reason was that it was a Saturday and around 09h00 – we had given them work!

However all was eventually sorted, forms filled in and stamped and address given to us to post requests to Windhoek on our return. Gulped brunch at Upington as we waited for nearly an hour for food to be served and we still had over 500km to complete, starting at around 13h0Eventually arrived at Wolmaranstad and spent night at Borobalo Lodge. Not recommended, rather travel an additional 25km and stay at Bona Bona game lodge on route to Klerksdorp.

Sunday

Experience lazy start to the day – we all met for breakfast at 08h00. We were presented with left overs from other peoples previous evenings braai! Can you believe it, at R750 per couple per night!

We were however saved by the waitress on duty condescended to cook us eggs, if we required them! I say again Borobalo lodge is not recommended.We all said our farewells at Klerksdorp after topping up to ensure our petrol tanks would be as full as possible when arriving home. We had heard of a petrol driver tanker strike – something to do with 13% .

CONCLUSION

The entire experience, taking in all aspects of happenings, routes, road conditions, accommodation, food choice, places of interest, back up facilities and pure endurance with bags of stamina thrown in for good measure was something we will never forget.

· The pleasure level fluctuated by the hour, depending on what we were doing.

· Namibia is a great country – large, extreme, hot and cold, sand and dust. It is not for sissies both in human and mechanical terms.

· Our bikes performed brilliantly – nothing went wrong – no mechanical failures, other than those caused by the riders. Not even a puncture!

· In order to fully enjoy what Namibia offers, it is strongly recommended that all riders qualified by successfully completing an Advanced off road course. A back up vehicle, loaded with appropriate spares and pulling a bike trailer is a must. Pillion riders, in our opinion are not recommended.

· Suggested number of bikes should not exceed 6.

· One participant should have basic first aid knowledge and F/A kit.

· One rider and back up vehicle to have cell phone contact at all times.

· Never split the group – keep to designated and agreed route for the day.

· Pre plan agreed meeting points (leg stretch and refreshment stops) and stick to it.

· Our expedition covered just on 6 000km . This was truly the purist form of what an ‘Adventure Ride’ should be